Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Lake Vicotria Ferry

My ferry across Lake Victoria left at 9pm so I arrived at the dock at
8pm and had a Safari beer in the incredibly dingy bar at the ferry
port. While I waiting I struck up a conversation with a few locals,
one of whom happened to be a "Tanzanian Health Inspector for the port
of Mwanza" (read: bribe taker. just kidding.... not really...) He was
a little drunk and decided he would escort me on board.
The boat defined the look of "weathered". The steel hull was painted a
pale yellow that gradually faded to rust along the crevices. The
wooden floors and railings had been polishing of thousands of feet and
hands, almost seemed like they would be soft if you touched them.
Anyway, we walked through the loading gate and onto the boat and he
began to to introduce me to all the officers. It was kind of like
being a child getting a tour of the cockpit.
Finally, he showed me the bar, chugged down some beer and hopped off.
Once the boat pulled away I locked up my backpack and started to
explore (where are the lifeboats? am I the only muzungo? etc.).
Eventually, I made my way back to the bar. I had a feeling that my new
health inspector "friend" had left his beer tab for me to pay.
I was right.
Occasionally, the bartender or a steward would ask for the money. I
would laugh (politely), hold their hand (friendly custom), and explain
in my personal mix of English and Swahili that "1: I was unaware that
we was drinking on my tab. 2: He was not my friend. 3: If they wanted
any money they should find him in Mwanza" Long story short, I never
paid a shilling for his tab.
Overall, the ride was uneventful, I chatted in the bar, watched the
black waters of Lake Victoria, and went to sleep.
The next morning we arrived in Bukoba at 6:45am. I rushed to the bus
station and caught a bus to Kampala, Uganda with 10 minutes to spare.

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