Meskel

Currently, it is the holiday of Meskel in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Meskel (it means "cross") celebrates the discovery of part of the "true cross" (that Jesus was crucified upon). 

Meskel starts with a massive bonfire in every city or town (on TV they broadcast the Addias Ababa fire live). As I understand it, the smoke from the fire represents the smoke that led Saint Helena to the place where the "true cross" was buried. On the street, farmers sell wood so that you can personally add fuel to it. 

I went to the ceremony in Bahir Dar along with a couple thousand Ethiopians. It was held in the middle of what I guess was the local parade grounds. Every fifty feet or so was a group from a local church dancing in a circle and singing in Amharic. After a long speech by the local church leader they lit the bonfire and the crowd went mad. As the flames grew and the wind changed direction the police began swiping at the crowd with sticks and batons to encourage them to move back. Oddly, both the police and the crowd were laughing and smiling. 

After the fire the town was filled with groups dancing and singing in the middle of the street (nicely blocking traffic). Like Eid, everyone suddenly had new clothes and the women were dressed in white.

The floors of resturants, shops and homes are sprinkled (liberally) with fresh green grass to create a sense of nature and peace. It's springtime in Ethiopia so the aesthetic might be comparable to Easter. Grass crosses, bonfires and anything within reach are decorated with a yellow flowers similar to a buttercup. Unofficially, its the "Meskel flower" because it only blooms during Meskel. Currently, all the hills in this part of Ethiopia are a deep green with fringes of bright yellow.

Anyway, back to the bonfire. For the next two days there are numerous other smaller fires on sidewalks or in homes (I watched a local drunk prove his bravery by walking through one yesterday). Afterwards, like Ash Wednesday, the charcoal is used to make the symbol of a cross on the forehead. The children go a little made with it and paint their whole faces.

Today, in Gondar, I got my own ash. 

While talking to a group of hustlers one of their friends approached carrying a charred log. 

I said, "Ah Happy Meskel..."

Immediately, a member of the group with one leg smiled broadly and wiped the ash across my forehead and cheek. 

He leaned back and declared, "Now you are Orthodox!"